Cold and Frost Good for Some Grapes

Ice wine is hot these days (or I should say cool), and for good reason. It is intense, delicious and absolutely unforgettable. Served as an after-dinner treat, this unusual dessert-style libation is sexy, sophisticated and working toward being trendy–especially in NH’s cool climate.

Ice wine comes from the Germanic term Eiswein. It is high in sugar and acidity, with moderate alcohol levels (8 topercent) and has a light, subtle, yet complex flavor. Its unique taste is the result of using late-harvest grapes (Riesling or Vidal Blanc), which hang on the vine deep into the throes of winter.

Grapes are picked after they’ve frozen and are then immediately pressed. Water crystals remain in the press, and only the sweetest juice, which has a lower freezing point than water, runs free. Traditionally, a temperature of 18 degrees Fahrenheit in the vineyard is required. The acidity and light alcohol add richness to the inherent sweetness, making a delicious balance of flavor and mouthfeel.
This combination of elements is what separates the intense sweetness of ice wine from, say, White Zinfandel, and the character is entirely different from simple sweet table wines.

Because ice wines depend on a cold climate, they are not prey to botrytis cinerea, a fungus that rots wine in wet, humid conditions. The cold also results in a cleaner, crisper, lighter flavor than the honeyed richness of a botrytised wine.

But be prepared for an expensive treat. Ice wines carry a significant cost, primarily due to the difficulty and risk associated with producing it. There is a of room for error, for instance, when a frost does not come quickly enough, grapes rot and the crop is lost. On the other hand, if frosts are too severe, no juice can be extracted (think of pressing marbles). Ripe grapes appeal to birds and deer, and that can cause losses.

A modern-day subset of ice wine, perfected Randall Grahm, founder and president of Bonny Doon Vineyard in California, involves using a commercial freezer (cryoextraction), in which grapes are held commercial freezer units before being pressed. The producer can therefore manipulate how much wine of what quality is made and guarantee a stable and consistent product. Is it cheating? You decide. The result is delicious wines that are slightly less complex and much more affordable.

Ice wine should be served as a final course, slightly chilled in a demi-wine glass. It is often paired with dessert, though a true ice wine is best when served alone. It can be paired with fresh fruit (in particular, strawberries), but should not be paired with rich desserts such as cheesecake or ice cream, which would overpower the wine.

Restaurateurs should make note of ice wine’s longer shelf life. Because of the high sugar content, ice wine remains stable for some time after being opened. To find out what’s available in NH, look into 39234 Jackson-Triggs Vidal, 38859 Inniskillin Vidal, and 46473 Peller Vidal Icewine, though certainly the most accessible and intriguing examples are coming locally from Jewell Towne Vineyards (where, in the interest of full disclosure, I work). Try the Rhapsody in Blue Vidal Icewine and the 2006 Vintage Vidal Icewine.

Rich Collins is a WSET-certified wine professional, working in sales and marketing at Jewell Towne Vineyards in South Hampton, NH. He can be reached at the vineyard or at info@thirstproductions.com.

Comments

[Kathleen Blair]

I have tasted this particular JewellTowne Icewine and it truly is delicious-especially standing on its own as an after dinner treat!!!Great article Mr. Collins!!!! I love your articles-I always learn something new and quite unique from them. Please write more!!!!